Day 4 from Segovia to Leon
Travel in Style day 4 Segovia to Leon approximately 250km
We left Segovia at midmorning,
in the direction Cuellar (circa 59km) - Valladolid (+another 56km) then to our final destination Leon (+another 144km), Cuellar and Valladolid are both worth a stay/stopover.
We stayed on the road A-601 to Valladolid and then A-601/A-60 to Leon. Driving time under 3 hours.
We arrived at the Hotel Exe Leon in the early afternoon as did several other arrivals, but the reception staff were very efficient and the check-in went smoothly.
The hotel is located near the N-630 highway leading into the city and near the El Cortes Ingles (large department store). Secured parking was available for a fee.
Leon its a delightful City
León is located on the Bernesga River in northwest Spain, and is the capital of the Province of León and has around 125,000 inhabitants.
Perhaps is true to say that Leon may not be a very well known city to visit for international tourism. although pilgrims (locals or internationals) on the Santiago de Compostela route might stopover in Leon as it is one of the main stopping points. To walk from Leon to Santiago, the final distance is around 310km on a route called the French Way.
Image by Hotel Parador Leon
The old convent of San Marcos
it’s located down beside the river, its more than 100 meters long. It was a pilgrims hospital when it was founded in early 1173. Today a luxury Hotel Parador Leon
Exploring Leon
From our Hotel Exe Leon it was about 12-15 minutes stroll to the old town medieval wall and we entered through Puerto Moneda. A more relaxed walk into the old town compare with Segovia’s old town, but not as busy.
It took a while before Geoff and I found our way into Barrio Humedo, a Roman legion arrived here in the year 70 AD, and made a camp at a place where later the city of Leon would be created.
Plaza del Grano / Plaza de Santa Maria del Camino
The first square we crossed is popularly known as Plaza del Grano its official name is Plaza de Santa María del Camino, and it is located behind the church of Nuestra Señora del Mercado which is located in the oldest part of the city of León.
The church was built in the 11th century. Lovely cobbled medieval square, with bars, cafes and houses.
Barrio Humedo can be translated to “wet neighbourhood”.
Much can be found available in the old historic quarters, bars, plenty of them include music bars, and of course the traditional Irish-style pubs and also “Discos” and few nightclubs.
Plaza de San Martin I think the musicians were dressed in Maragots traditional costumes. (The Maragatos are about 4,000 people who are believed to be the last Moorish people in Spain).
You can be spoilt by the number of Tapas bars to choose from in this barrio and especially around the “wet” centre area Plaza de San Martin, there are over ten tapas bars around the square alone. Pick your own favourite(s) as reviews are mixed between the bars.
Any bar in León they will give you a free tapas accompanying your drink
To get a free tapa just order a drink first and then wait to see what kind of tapa comes with it and when you repeat your drink order again, wait and another tapa will come. and then continue to another tapa bar, repeat your drink routine and…
Just off the edge of the Plaza de San Martin square the bar-wine cellar-restaurante Racimo de Oro is housed in a atmospheric 17th century building with beamed ceiling and brick walls.
Plaza de San Martin is approximately half way between Plaza del Grano and where we will head next,
Plaza Mayor.
Full of life, busy afternoon for all outside cafes, bars and restaurant terraces, occupied predominated by teens and 20+ years visitors, but also a good number of families.
Plaza Mayor is also wher there is a twice-weekly market taking place on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 9: 00h to 15: 00h . There are fruit and vegetable, cheese and cold meat stalls all interwoven with clothes stands.
We explored some streets (many for pedestrian only) to the Cathedral and it was a busy time in the late afternoon. People enjoyed themselves, either by visiting cafes, bars or enjoying a city sightseeing tram ride.
Leon Cathedral
It took nearly 100 years to complete the present structure of the Cathedral. The work started in the mid 13th Century, and it was built on the site of previous Cathedral.
read about visits schedules and prices. The Museum. Worship and more. Unfortunately Geoff and I arrived too late in the afternoon for a visit. We were dissapointed to have missed the Cathedral visit, however the exterior sights offered us some compensation.
Leon Cathedral building work started mid 13th century and was compleated in less than 100 years.
About half a kilometer to walk from the Cathedral to visit another impressive building with interesting history is the Romanesque Basilica de San Isidro, which dates back to the XI Century.
Today a medieval museum, Real Panteon, tombs of the kings of León, important XII Century frescos.
Eventually our legs started to give us a signal, “time to sit down” and enjoy one of the many outside bars-restaurants, besides the leg ache we started to get peckish, time for late lunch early dinner
Calle de la Rua
We found ourselves walked on Calle la Rua, a rather narrow street. Some bar-restaurants and a few shops. There is a website, Lucernarios that mention Calle de la Rua as a Historical street of Leon.
“The name refers to its origin and history, which dates back to the Middle Ages when it was the route taken by pilgrims arriving in León on the Camino de Santiago from France. Since these pilgrims would ask for the " rue " (street) at the entrance to the city, the people of León eventually adopted it as "rúa," so everyone knew what they were talking about.”
Both Geoff and I was not aware of the historical aspect when we strolled on to find a suitable eating place in the early evening.
“Some names have survived the passage of time and changing fashions, such as Calzados La Revoltosa (Shoes La Revoltosa) or La Perla (The Pearl).” according to Lucernarios.
Meson La Perla
With the flag of the Province of Leon draped on the wall, a rather rustic facade with 3 high table and chairs outside against the wall of the Meson La Perla. More empty seats outside opposite on the street, a few customers seated indoors.
We were approached by an elderly gentleman who services the tables outside, he convinced us that this was the place we had been looking for. We were seated opposite the facade, and shortly after our arrival and to our pleasant surprise all the table on our side (4-5) was occupied and 2 of high tables against the Meson La Perla was filled by customers as well.
We shared one plate of Tuna and Pimiento (red peppar), olives and sprinkled with olive oil. We ordered some local bread. We also shared a bottle of local red wine from Ribera del Duero.
Our shared second plate was of cold meat, it’s traditionally produced in the province of Leon. Cecina de Leon a cured meat made from best beef sirloin.
We really enjoyed our meal, the service and Meson La Perla offered good value, what else could you ask for?
